Beat a path to SW13

The Porterhouse
201 Castelnau, SW13
(020-8748 4486) Mon-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-10.30pm

The people of Castelnau are twice blessed - they live in Castelnau, a leafy, upmarket subdistrict of the even leafier, stratospherically upmarket Barnes, and they have the Porterhouse on their doorstep. The Porterhouse phenomenon of microbreweries and bars started in Bray, County Wicklow, back in 1989.

A second site opened in Dublin's Temple Bar in 1995 and, in 2000, the Porterhouse boys eventually crossed the water, opening what was to become their flagship operation, with 13,500sqft of 'craicfest' in Covent Garden's Maiden Lane.

This was to prove to be the perfect antithesis to our nation's then obsession with the ersatz subgenre of jokey Irish theme bars, and such was its success that a second Dublin venue opened earlier this year. London now has its second outpost in premises previously occupied by one of the Browns branches of restaurants and bars.

This white stucco building sits proudly at the apex of Castelnau and Lonsdale Road and is reminiscent of an old Empire-style, colonial residence. The interior has been given a smart heave-ho and now comprises one large, good-looking, contemporary room with grown-up furnishings and an atmosphere that should appeal to the Messieurs and Misses Barnes of this parish.

But it will be the beer garden that will prove to be a huge draw. The vast expanse at the back of the building is occupied by picnic tables --some shaded, some open to the sun - and makes for one of the most superior gardens in London. The garden has its own bar, which opens up on sunny days, and there's a grassy children's play space in a second garden beyond the main terrace.

If it's beer you're after, then you're at the right place. Nine different unpasteurised keg beers - not real ales - are on tap, brewed in Dublin using top quality malts, hops, wheat and yeast, each producing flavours so diverse that it is almost possible to satiate every palate. There are three stouts, three ale-style beers and three lager-style beers. The best way to explore these delights is to order a sampler tray of the three brews of each genre for £3.50.

If it's international bottled beers you're after, then the encyclopaedic menu of 95 quality world beers will take some time, and many visits, to explore properly. This is the closest thing to heaven for beer anoraks and, unlike many of our home-grown real ale pubs, the Porterhouse provides a comfortable environment and offers table service. And if beer isn't your game, fear not. An extremely good range of reasonably priced wines covers all taste bases and - as if this isn't enough - staff even know how to mix together a reasonable cocktail.

The food is very good pub fare. You can pig out on an extensive range of starters and salads, including plates of oysters, patés and bruschetta, substantial salad and pasta dishes, or mains such as burgers, Irish stew and steaks.

I wonder if the people of Castelnau know a good thing when they see one, as they're being right royally spoilt with the Porterhouse. If this part of South-West London is beneath your radar, then I recommend you beat a hasty path and without further ado.