Bar and grill hoping to survive

Iniga. Cedar Lounge. El Rincon. Zaika Bazaar. I walk down the basement stairs to Bowler with a sense of sinking recognition: over the past years of restaurant reviewing, I've been here before, and before and before.

Generally, when a joint fails, I blame the restaurateur - bad food, bad management - not bad karma. But this location genuinely seems to have the kiss of death stamped on it; of the aforementioned restaurants, three of them were actively excellent (hint: not Cedar Lounge) but still bit the dust.

The latest owners, who run a successful catering events business, have hit on the grill formula: steaks, sandwiches, salads, simple mains.

It should work, and the steaks are certainly of excellent quality, as is the welcome from our lanky waiter. But butternut squash risotto is sweet and puddingy; 'seared' squid isn't, it is greasily fried in damp breadcrumbs; and the fennel cream that comes with an otherwise well-cooked sea bass with good, crunchy savoy cabbage, is a vast, flavourless, clotted soup.

Thankfully, they haven't splashed too much out on the decor, hanging on to Iniga's layout and red mock crock banquettes (perfectly matching my pal's bag). Is Bowler the one to break the curse of 2a Pond Place? Sadly, I don't think so.

Bowler Bar & Grill
2a, Pond Place, SW3 6QJ