It should work, and the steaks are certainly of excellent quality, as is the welcome from our lanky waiter. But butternut squash risotto is sweet and puddingy; 'seared' squid isn't, it is greasily fried in damp breadcrumbs; and the fennel cream that comes with an otherwise well-cooked sea bass with good, crunchy savoy cabbage, is a vast, flavourless, clotted soup.