Balzac Bistro

This review was first published in November 2001

It has to be said that Shepherd's Bush is a real mish-mash of an area. There are still the signs of the old Victorian 'working class' society but now there is a new, trendy feel added into the mix, and considering it's proximity to Notting Hill, it's hardly surprising that an up-market air is being forced on the area.

It's this that makes the Balzac such a gem. It opened in 1972 - a simple, family-run restaurant which doesn't have grandiose ideas. The owner is Paul Tarelli, part Italian, part French, and it belonged to a relative prior to him taking over.

Having starched, white tablecloths and serviettes adds to the homely atmosphere that makes diners feel they are eating with friends - a feeling reinforced by chef Franck Vera's desire to create dishes that were fashionable 25 years ago.

While my guest and I perused the menu (small but an excellent choice of dishes from la campagne), we nibbled on bread, butter and very tasty garlic olives based in basil, tomato and a smattering of grated cheese. We both chose from the fixed priced menus - there are three to choose from, £12.90 for two courses or £14.90 and £17.90 for three, all of which will give you a real feast.

The onion soup I began with, was as good as any I had eaten during my time living in France - appropriately about 25 years ago - and of the high quality one would expect to find in the wee small hours in Les Halles, famed for it's onion soup cafes.

The Boeuf Bourguignon in Rich Red Wine Stew is to die for? a truly hearty meal for big appetites. The meat was so tender it melted like butter, potatoes were perfectly firm but not hard and the wine sauce added a delicate flavour without being too tart.

My partner chose Rabbit Casserole with Olives and white wine from the £17.90 menu. Being a Frenchman he homed in on a dish that is hard to find in England, and savoured every mouthful, helped by the Crozes Hermitage Rochefine rouge sec. The only unpalatable part for me was the easy-listening music from Michel Sardon (circa late Sixties) warbling away in the background, but my partner appreciated it.

Desert was a choice of the usual tart, cheese, cr?me brulee and sorbets, and although not too inspirational, my champagne sorbet freshened my palette nicely.

The pricing of this cosy establishment reflects its proximity to the BBC and hence the reason for its relative quietness in the evenings as most diners come for lunch.

This is a classical 'bistro du coin' where the food is just like Maman made, the portions are for the hardy (in fact two courses is quite sufficient) and it is genuinely good value for money.

Balzac Bistro
4 Wood Lane, Shepherd's Bush, W12 7DP