... and lashings of ginger beer

This review was published in September 2001

While Kensington High Street continues to sprout chain-stores in a reflection of the increasing homogeneity of high streets everywhere, the W8 back streets retain a timeless charm. During our lunch at The Muffin Man, my date reminisced about how he used to lift the crockery from the nearby Biba Rainbow Room before adjourning to this endearing spot to gloat over his booty.

Nothing has changed since then: the same bentwood chairs, the trailing plant life, the vintage, powdered and largely feminine clientele. ('Ooh, I do like a nice egg mayonnaise.') This is quintessential, genteel tearoom time. My request for a poached egg on top of my Muffin Man Rarebit was met with a gasp of astonishment; I bet few people ever order off menu here.

And it's all ever so nice. Lovely fresh muffins topped with a cheesy, ale-y mixture for the rarebit (I got my egg), flanked by a salad that last had a public outing when Jim'll Fix It graced our screens: shredded iceberg, quartered tomatoes, sliced cucumber - with a Lilliputian juglet of excellent Worcestershire-saucy dressing. A nicely pink sausage of the kind that's never been introduced to a rare breed pig accessorised beautifully fluffy, buttery scrambled egg and more muffins.

Crumbly home-made scones came with good quality jam and thick, crusty clotted cream. Tea itself was an excellent blend. It came to £13.30 for the lot. All we needed afterwards was for nanny to tuck us under the eiderdown for our afternoon naps.

The Muffin Man
12 Wright's Lane, W8