An ugly Bod

Gosh, Bod is ugly: there's that name, an unattractive diminutive of Bodega de Tapas. Then there's the strident exterior, lashed with what looks like graffiti, and the blocky, uncomfortable interior, all sharp corners, raw wood, bare metal and shades of concrete.

Upturned sherry barrels hint at what turns out to be an interesting wine list. But that's its only saving grace.

Our food isn't going to win any beauty contests, either. But if it tastes wonderful, who cares, right? Sadly, it doesn't.

A 'stick' of morcilla (Spanish black pudding) is a badly cooked study in grease; one authentic-tasting sausage is bizarrely interleaved on a skewer with what appears to be a cheap, British variety. Had they run out? Chorizo, too, is poor: pale pink, flaccid and rubbery, it bears a strong resemblance to a Mattessons smoked pork link.

Squid, served with a rather good Bloody Mary jelly, hasn't been properly cleaned. Anodyne patatas bravas carry the tinge of the microwave. Teruel ham is properly hand-cut and served with toasted almonds.

Go for this, some pan con tomate and a chilled glass of something Galician and you could probably blot out surroundings about as pretty as the burned-out Hawley Arms nearby. Actually, make that several glasses.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £55. 30 Hawley Crescent NW1. Tel: 020 7482 5937. www.bodegadetapas.co.uk Tube: Camden Town

Bod
30 Hawley Crescent, NW1