Amazing grazing in a stunning setting

With the festive excess still wobbling on my hips, the thought of a rich, formal meal in a posh restaurant seemed as woefully unappetising as another sale-price mince pie.

Yet Andrew Turner, head chef of The Landau, allayed my diet guilt and tempted my tastebuds with light "grazing" menus. "We're not eating grass are we?" fretted the date. I wouldn't have noticed if we were, the surroundings are so spectacular.

Entering via a darkened corridor that doubles as a wine library, we actually gasped at the impact of this round, high-ceilinged restaurant. A beautiful grey-blue space with a stylish take on art deco, it's a dining cathedral.

The amazing sommelier made us feel we were worth a million dollars (though we clearly weren't), topping up for free our considerate "tasting" glasses when one of the (many) courses took slightly too long arriving.

The six-course grazing menu (£60) offers titbit versions of the a la carte - and it's just as well the portions are diminutive, because after the delicately arranged starter of quail egg, truffles and artichokes, I'd have struggled to finish either the Anjou pigeon with artichoke puree, or the exquisitely toothsome Guernsey sea bass fillet with confit tomatoes and smoked olive oil. Instead I could have both, plus a Cornish crab and avocado concoction AND a "bonus" free course of smoked salmon - go greed!

Despite all this, you never felt you were stuffing yourself, thanks to perfectly judged portions and the well-considered pauses from the kitchen. Having tucked into our zingy apple millefeuille and sherbet with a capsule of chocolate oil we were still enthusiastic about the complimentary handmade choccies. The Landau may be only slightly lighter on the hips than on the wallet, but it's seriously worth every pound.

The Roux at The Landau
Portland Place, London, W1B 1JA