All over bar the drinking

On to Aldgate East and The Old Dispensary in Leman Street. Al Murray, whose performances as the Pub Landlord make real pub landlords quake, summed up the judges' predicament. "Nice pub in a nice building, done interestingly," he said, "but I'd be loath to recommend a pub during the convulsions of new management." That was the problem. The pub had changed hands just four days before. "Enormous potential," said Sir Tim, "but not ready yet."

So to The Bishop's Finger in Smithfield. "The most typically pubby pub we went to," said Andrew Jefford. "Owned by Shepherd Neame, the great Kentish brewer, food fine, good to look at..." "Nice pub," said Al Murray.

And finally to Battersea for The Settle Inn. "The music was too loud, I got them to turn it down twice," said Al Murray, "but you walked in, there was that nice fire in the middle of the room and everything was pleasant, spacious and friendly." "Very good beer, nice fire, a warm welcome," said Sir Tim. "A really well run London pub," said Andrew Jefford. "Of all the pubs this is the one I would go back to," said Test cricketer Phil Tufnell. "I could happily sit there for five hours and get plastered." "As you proved," murmured Tim Rice.

That did it. The Settle Inn was Pub of the Year.

So presumably you need the likes of Sally Gunnell and Linford Christie chasing each other with a cocktail swizzler in order to complete your order, right? Not quite. The bar is divided up into umpteen different service stations and staffed by up to 16 cocktail shakers and movers with a further two walking the floor to provide table service.

But the guys and gals have got their work cut out remembering the recipes for the 95 different cocktails on the list - and what bloomin' good cocktails they are.

Alongside the traditional classics and creations generated in the new wave of cocktail euphoria that was the Nineties, Zander's list boasts some interesting new breezes and Martinis with the average price of a drink running at a remarkably accessible £5.50. You can eat in Zander's much-acclaimed restaurant, of course, but most prefer to eat in the bar, where you can choose from the full restaurant menu or snack on tapas, vegetarian dips, chorizo sausages and the like.

Zander's clientele is noticeably up-market, which is what you'd expect with a location on swanky Buckingham Gate. Visitors from the palace, perhaps? Not yet, apparently. But when word gets round, who knows? The crowds are mostly drawn from the hussle and bustle of nearby Victoria Street and, although they enjoy the party atmosphere generated by DJs from Wednesday to Saturday nights, there are still plenty of sexy little hideaway holes where you can get on with the business of having a good time - almost unobserved.

And then there's the patio at the back, and several private rooms which can be hired for private functions. Did I tell you that a zander is a pike-perch fish? A slippery customer, apparently, and with vicious teeth to boot. But this bar's moniker is merely a respectful nod to its owner, Cutty's Catering, which supplies fish to the top London restaurants and, I'm told, to the catering dens in the Houses of Parliament.

Zander has only been open since March, the result of a dramatic conversion from a former oriental restaurant adjacent to the Crowne Plaza hotel. And its following of hedonistic devotees is continuing to grow at a healthy pace. So now is the time to chuck on your glad-rags and check out one of the most sophisticated and spine-chillingly cool bars in town.

Judging the bars

"We started off at Zander," said Edward Sullivan, "a spectacular cocktail bar which claims to have the longest bar in Europe: 47 metres long." That's 51 yards! "And," he continued, "you can order any cocktail, even one you just made up..." Richard Bacon, Channel 4's Big Breakfast presenter, loved it. "I took my dad," he says, "and he loved it too." "I think it may be after-worky-suity," said Fran Cutler, who has a way with parties, cocktails and English, "but there's nothing wrong with that. A lot of stairs down to the toilets but they are really good when you reach them. The cocktails are amazing."

"This was my favourite," said Eva Rice, model, novelist, song-writer, singer and Sir Tim's daughter. "I liked the long bar and the courtyard with fairy lights and the cocktails." Tania Bryer found the hassle-free environment very welcome. And the cocktails.

On to l9:20 in Clerkenwell. Richard Bacon had become a fan of this lively basement bar, the only one, he pointed out, not to have a huge budget to get itself going. Tania loved the decor and the elderflower Martinis. "Big sofas, very strong cocktails," said Eva appreciatively.

The Porterhouse in Covent Garden was a big contrast. "Just fitting it out," said Edward Sullivan, "cost about £2 million."

It was touristy at weekends but fantastic during the week. Tania liked its chicken wings and youthful buzz and Richard Bacon put it first. Eight ales brewed in Ireland, more than a hundred international bottled beers, fantastic.

The Light Bar got lots of praise. Tania and Eva were very impressed by the massive old power station with its girders, bare bricks and high ceilings, also by the restaurant at the back. Fran liked the Light Bar best of all. "It reminded me of downtown New York," she said. "I had a run-in with the barman, but I really loved the bar."

Smith's of Smithfield , the one-time meat warehouse, now huge bar, smaller bar, brasserie and restaurant, was another strong contender. "This," said Edward Sullivan, "is what people keep telling me London is waiting for." "I could throw a very good party in this place," added Fran. "One of the most significant bars to open in London," said Tania. "It was packed with young people having a good time." "You could easily do an entire evening here," said Eva. "It's an amazing place." She put Zander first, though, and Zander, in the teeth of fierce competition, was the winner.