A zesty, fragrant Indian

Although the night was miserable and moonless, there was a glimmer of hope in the west as the Democrats took the House of Representatives.

When Donald Rumsfeld resigned, our political appetites were sated and we turned our attention to the more pressing matter of dinner.

In the style of true politicians, it had to be Indian. So we made for the Granita of curry houses - a modern Indian called Emni, at the foot of Islington's Upper Street.

Cocooned behind the smoked glass windows, among the dark-stained wood and deep-red linen, the bustle of Islington's main street seemed suddenly far away.

The cream interior was lit dimly enough to feel intimate, and the sleek crockery and cutlery are a world away from the pink damask and flock wallpaper of an old-fashioned curry house. The ambience was more like a spa's - with gentle music and Zen-like design.

The test of an Indian, modern or old-fashioned, is in its sundries. So we ordered a pile of papadums which came perfectly crisp and light, although the minty chutneys were a little cloying.

We moved on to our three starters next. Malai Scallops was a melting Goan dish stuffed with nuts and simmered in a fragrant coconut milk and curry leaf sauce. Each scallop came in a tiny geometric bowl, and was a rich yet delicate treat.

For my traditionalist partner, it had to be onion bhaji - and to his delight, three big nests of onion arrived, crisp on the outside, moist within, and drizzled with a fruity sauce. He polished them off in seconds.

The menu boasts home-made cheeses, so I picked Paneer Gulnar, which was our only poor choice. The cheese was rather good - like a fresh mozzarella - but the herby stuffing was over dry and couldn't be rescued by the jewels of fresh pomegranate which studded the filling.

Main courses emphasise healthy cooking techniques, interesting combinations of herbs and spice and fresh ingredients. The traditionalist is also vegetarian, and he chose a very good mixed lentil dahl - rich, nutty and creamy with a bracing zing. I had a side dish of okra with raw mango. This was a nice combination of crunchy textures and sweet, sour and savoury flavours.