A taste of Ibiza in Archway

This review was published in July 2001

There's absolutely no doubt Café del Parc is a labour of love. The owners - one beavering away in his little centre stage kitchen - one devotedly doing front of house, sure as heck aren't in it to make their fortunes. It's tiny, ramshackle and everything just shouts budget.

What the owners have tried to do is introduce a Café del Mar - famous 'sunset' Ibiza hangout - vibe; not an easy task just a stone's throw from Archway. But the ambient sounds, laid-back atmosphere and surprisingly good food do manage to induce a pleasantly narcotic sensation of wellbeing.

Given the surroundings, you'd be forgiven for expecting, as we did, a menu of brown-ricey worthiness; in fact it's rather ambitious in a dinner-party kind of way (which adds to your feeling of being a guest in someone's home).

Portions are generous: a heap of splendidly tender charred squid on top of roasted peppers and dollops of caviar, all laced with garlic butter, was quite a plateful. Home-cured gravlax was rose in hue and velvet in texture with an unusual dressing made of fromage frais.

A tower of potato and cabbage cake supported tender medallions of monkfish in a creamy, mustardy sauce - excellent; chicken with parmesan crust, mozzarella and sundried tomatoes was on the hackneyed side (I had warned my date but nobody listens to me). Great value - there's a steal of a set menu (two courses for £10.50, three for £12.95) - and good fun.

Del Parc
Junction Road, London, N19 5PZ