A tantalising Turkish delight

This review was first published in December 2001

Tradition has it that the hungry diner in search of Christmas nourishment should turn to turkey. Of course, the annual December 25th showdown with said bird, not to mention the endless rounds of leftovers that usually follow before New Year has staggered into view, can leave food fans more than a little fed-up with the gobbling farmyard-dweller and its dreary white meat. And that goes for the stuffing as well.

Thankfully, help is at hand for those who fancy a change, but feel they should stick roughly to the food rules of Christmas - assuming they can stomach appalling puns along with their dinner. Anatolya Ocakbasi, on Hackney's lively Mare Street, offers a wide range of dishes from (you guessed it) Turkey and other Mediterranean regions. And while that means that, technically, you aren't operating strictly within Christmas traditions, give granny her food quick enough and the old girl probably won't notice the difference.

Not that she'll be complaining once she gets stuck into what proves a decently-lengthy menu for a restaurant restricted to six tables slotted down the side of the takeaway counter. Indeed, the biggest obstacle to dining at Anatolya Ocakbasi is overcoming your conviction that it is anything more than a kebab takeaway joint, the initial sight that greets customers being the obligatory rotating meat skewer and steamed-up window.

However, those who manage to step beyond the threshold are rewarded for their bravery. The back portion of the restaurant reveals an open charcoal grill on which all meals are cooked in view of the clientele. This naturally means that eating at Anatolya Ocakbasi is not a quick experience, but the delay is fully compensated for by the chance to watch your order being prepared.

When the food arrives it is, as you might expect, meaty, spicy and of generous proportions - Anatolya Ocakbasi is hardly an appropriate restaurant choice for vegetarians, despite a short salad selection. Lamb and chicken are the specialties of the house, whether served as a simple shish (£5.20) or as a doner, carved from the spit and seasoned (£5.10).

Where Anatolya Ocakbasi really stands out, however, is in its more complex dishes. Yogurtlu Adana (£7.20) proves an inspired selection - a stomach-filling mixture of spiced, minced lamb served with chunks of bread in a thick yoghurt and butter sauce. Lamb Kulibasti (£7.20) is also a worthy choice - slices of grilled lamb shoulder in herbs and spices, served with rice.

Even with alcohol included (a selection of mellow Turkish wines are offered from around £8.00), the bill is unlikely to overly trouble your wallet - a meal for two with starters and wine should only just creep over the £20 mark. And to continue the painful Turkey metaphor for just another couple of lines, it's rare to leave the restaurant anything but stuffed - although canny customers will do well to buy themselves a tub of the house humus at £2.20 - better than anything offered on supermarket shelves - and surely a more appetising prospect than another cold turkey sandwich come December 28th.

Anatolia
Mare Street, London, E8 3NS