A room with a view

A restaurant with a diverting view is not only beneficial for diners but can prove to be a big bonus for staff too; any minor service slip-ups or lapses in the quality of the food may often be overlooked by distracted customers as they admire the scenery. But The Tenth's owners haven't let a stunning view of the London skyline distract them from providing quality dishes and slick service - a wise move considering that the panoramic wow factor lessens as the daylight fades.

The restaurant is located on the tenth floor of the Royal Garden Hotel in Kensington, hence the name and the fantastic views. It makes the most of the location with a window stretching from one side of the room to the other. Kensington Palace Gardens, Hyde Park, the Royal Albert Hall and the London Eye can all be seen on a clear day.

When we arrived for early evening dinner we had the place to ourselves, except for one other couple at the opposite end of the room. It seemed they had chosen their table wisely. With no background music we were waiting for the proverbial pin to drop, but the calm was shattered with the arrival of an enthusiastic group of drinkers who descended on the bar directly behind our table and competed to out-do each other's anecdotes in ever-increasing pitch and volume.

Any attempt at conversation was futile so we concentrated on the food instead. Head chef Norman Farquharson's menu reads fairly conventionally but reveals several adventurous twists. A light, crisp, smoked haddock soufflé was a filling treat - full of fishy flavour, served with a watercress and cucumber salad and revealing a perfectly-cooked soft boiled egg at its centre.

Two pan-fried sea bream fillets were teamed with a robust basil and red wine sauce and a scoop of aubergine 'caviar', or purée, while the pavé of grilled halibut was topped with a rich champagne and vanilla sauce and accompanied by a roll of lobster cannelloni - a fresh, tasty filling though the cold pasta seemed a bit of an odd addition to the plate.

There is a selection of delicately-flavoured honey, olive and cheese breads and each course is punctuated with an amuse-bouche, including a chicken and diced vegetable consommé and a refreshing, zesty lemon sorbet. A miniature cheesecake topped with chocolate flakes and red berries preceded our choice of dessert, which was a deliciously sweet caramel pannacotta served with a generous dollop of coffee ice cream and three large vanilla biscotti.

It's worth making the ascent to The Tenth - the menu is inventive, the service is excellent (which is what you would expect from a 3 AA Rosettes) and of course there's the view. Though some of the dishes are a little pricey, there are regular promotions, particularly at lunchtime. Just make sure you stay clear of the bar.

The Tenth Restaurant & Bar
Kensington High Street, London, W8 4PT