The service was swift but perfectly chaotic as glasses were changed without reason and plates of fantastic bruschetta and olives assailed us from every side.
The wine list was the real thing, too - only Italian, and extremely diverse. A very smooth bottle of Roncus Vecchie Vigne, fairly reasonably priced, was followed by a couple of bottles of Val di Miez, and then (of course) some grappa.
The food was good - with one exception - with large portions (it almost required two people to present the veal Milanese) and interesting combinations (such as a salmon, avocado and goat's cheese salad which was perfectly delicious).
The whitebait was pronounced better than that served in a Mayfair haunt famed for its fish: ten out of ten. The exception: the saltimbocca - far too dry - disappointed, which the staff knew and showed genuine embarrassment about.
You wouldn't come here for a light snack or a romantic evening - the music would see to that. But you would come here to enjoy the gossipy company of family or good friends in convivial surroundings.
Although not full of people - there was a football match on, after all - it was filled with the sound of laughter.
Having arrived feeling tense and tired, we had a great time swapping stories and scandal, and the simplicity of the place eased us into that.
The ritual conversation about how absurd it was of the Tories to try to persuade the awful Greg Dyke to stand for Mayor - one loyal Conservative at the table pronounced it the 'last straw' and ripped up his membership card - was energetic.
I bet Mr Wenger was comforted that Dein chose here to break his news. Another famous Islington haunt - Granita - became famous, of course, for the friendship that wasn't, and for double-crossing.
I don't think that could ever have happened at San Daniele, which - unlike that place down the other end of Upper Street - encourages familiarity, honesty and openness.
Imagine how different political history might have been if Gordon and Tony had rejected the avocado mousse and polenta bake in favour of good, old-fashioned San Daniele - and made their agreements here?
DANIELE DEL FRIULI 72 Highbury Park, N5 (020 7226 1609)
Who goes there? Grown-up football supporters; Highbury is just round the corner. If Arsenal win, manager Arsène Wenger celebrates here. On his 53rd birthday the team lost so he cancelled, even though they'd baked a cake. Nick Hornby and Melvyn Bragg are also fans.
Why the hype? Wenger ate here with David Dein prior to the Arsenal's vice-chairman's departure.
What to order? Grilled vegetable grigliati and homemade pasta with classic butter and sage sauce.
Best table Table five seats two by the window, with a bit more privacy.
Cost £29 for three courses without wine.
Restaurant manager Marco Fossaluzza.
San Daniele Del Friuli Highbury Park, London, N5 2XE
