A novel taste for design

In Irish legend, Fergus was a warrior king of Ulster. In contemporary restauration, chef-proprietor Fergus Henderson is the patron saint of British food. Without ever stating it as an aim, Henderson has redefined our indigenous cuisine.

He has removed pomp and parody and concentrated on the potential in well brought-up produce. Nothing escapes him as the starting point for a dish, whether it be crispy pig's ear as a salad garnish or oxtail in a jellied terrine.

Not everything on the daily-changing menu is what some would regard as simply offal. There are noble fish dishes, and seasonal vegetables are often allowed to take centre stage, sometimes unrehearsed as in a pile of fresh peas to pod.

Henderson trained as an architect, and his sympathy for space is evident in the uncluttered dining room with, at its feet, a bar designed for robust snacking.

St. John
St. John Street, London, EC1M 4AY