A new one to count on

I love a tale of determination, so I enjoyed Fran Macmillan's story: working in Clapham's Metro - a rather fine neighbourhood restaurant - she used it to launch herself up the ladder of the catering industry before coming back to Metro, this time as conquering heroine and new owner.

Now, she has a new venture, one ten old street. Does that funky lower case give you an inkling of what's on order? Yes, we're talking trendy here. Quirky decor? How about an attractive collision between the clubby and the ecclesiastical: heavy wood and leather furniture, long crimson drapes and a church's candle stand in the restaurant; low, loungey stuff in the bar downstairs. There's also a stunning, stained-glass ceiling.

Modern British menu, regularly changing? Check. Cute wait-staff? Of course. Our food wasn't bad, but needed to be more confident in flavours, sizing and cooking temperatures. Prosciutto-wrapped monkfish came in the form of nuggets, drying out that temperamental fish. Its basil potato cake was a little limp, as was a sun-blushed tomato and red onion fritter with asparagus and parmesan.

Grilled sea bass with olives, potatoes, rosemary and capers was not much more than the sum of its OK parts. And a fillet of beef, hollowed out to cradle a collop of foie gras, had been too timidly fired.

But here's the great news: some genuinely cheap menus. A 'light lunch' - one course, such as smoked haddock fishcake and paprika hollandaise with a glass of wine or bottle of beer - for £6.50, and a weekday two-course lunch or early evening menu (before 7.30pm) for £8.

one ten old street
110 Old Street, EC1V 2BD