A mixed bag with the mad monk

This review was first published in April 2001

Thanks to Rasputin in Acton, I haven't been able to get the mad old Boney M song out of my head. This might also have something to do with the brain cells I massacred while exploring its marvellous vodkas; I expect one of the things a chemically induced lobotomy would lead to is an enhanced appreciation of Boney M.

For the record, we tried lemon, almond, honey, bison grass and pepper (over and over); they were all perfectly splendid, frosty and served in the correct little shot glasses. They were also responsible for shoving our bill up to £100, which is not at all necessary: Rasputin is generally very gently priced.

The food is Russian-lite, of the stroganoff variety (the menu calls it 'European') and best described as inoffensive. A Russian salad was a bespoke version of that diced stuff Heinz packs in cans: cubed vegetables in an excellent mayonnaise; it was a pleasantly retro experience.

Good smoked salmon came with stacks of nutty, smoky buckwheat blinis. The tendency in the main courses was to blast meat into oblivion: both wild boar shashlick and venison with cranberry, though nice-enough tasting, were overcooked and tough. Our beaming hostess was an intriguing mixture of consideration and sternness: we enjoyed her contribution to our evening.

On the evidence of our food, I'd revisit Rasputin for its vodkas and eccentric welcome and stick to starters. Altogether now, Ra-Ra-Rasputin, lover of the Russian queen...

Rasputin
265 High Street, Acton, W3 9BY