A little taste of heaven

I don't think I have gone from actively hating a restaurant to nothing but bonhomie in the space of one meal before.

Nobody told me about the communal seating at Wizzy - not Wagamama, spaced-out style, but virtually eating off each others' laps - and I squirmed in discomfort. In this bare, starkly decorated little resto, sound reverberates into a din, so you're more familiar with your neighbour's conversation than your date's.

Still, thanks to a combination of excellent, interesting food (new-Korean, just as I was getting to grips with old-style) and the warmth of owner Hwi Shim (the eponymous Wizzy, ex front-of-house at Hakkasan) meant that, Brit though I am, I was able to settle in.

Starters are little tastes of things, reflecting the Korean penchant for strong, sweet, spicy - and eggy - flavours. Little dumplings in dense, unyielding pastry delivered taste bombs of meat, prawn and vegetables; 'pancakes' were more like fritters; meat patties, courgettes in a ultra-light caul of egg.

The menu is endearing, full of typos and enthusiasms. One nine-hour-cooked beef rib stew came with the admonition 'Taste! It's heaven!' We did. And it was: rich, succulent, pungent with cinnamon and pepper. I dislike communal eating, but I liked Wizzy. Clever Wizzy.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £60. Wizzy, 616 Fulham Road SW6. Tel: 020 7736 9171. Tube: Parsons Green