A little local hero

While some restaurateurs aim to gather Michelin stars, others are content to fulfil another role that can be just as satisfying and lucrative - of creating a popular neighbourhood restaurant.

One that has managed the trick is A Cena, near where I live in south-west London. It's easy, informal dining: you could take the in-laws or your best business contact or just go with friends; you can dress up or dress down; you can eat and drink a lot or a little.

The decor is contemporary with quirky touches. The highly polished wooden bar, for instance, is a classic. The service is unfussy; the staff attentive and efficient.

Everything is understated and unpretentious.

The food is Northern Italian, but the place is run by Brits. A Cena is run by former professional polo player Tim Healy and his wife, Camilla, and when we were there, none of the waiters appeared to be Italian. It does grate - you'd like to see more Italian touches - but only slightly.

Breads and olive oil for dipping arrived without asking. We had a summer antipasto with a white-bean mash and Schiacciata di Manzo (the only dish given its full Italian name): thinly sliced, flash-fried beef with white truffle oil. Both were fine. Fillet of sea bass with a lemon sauce and chard; and veal with carrots and roast potatoes didn't disappoint. Neither did the desserts of cherry-and-almond gratin, and chocolate tortofu with raspberries and cream.

Doubtless, there is better food to be had in central London, but you have to journey there and pay a lot more for it. Decent half-bottles of Gavi di Gavi and Chianti from a strong wine list and a glass of Vin Santo took the total, without service, to £108.50.

For a local, it's not cheap. But I bet you A Cena will be around long after many other starrier restaurants have been and gone.

A Cena
Richmond Road, Twickenham, TW1 2EB