A house of splendid vinos

You'd think a place called Vivat Bacchus would have a wine list that would take months to wade through. Instead, despite walls lined with bottles and decor of wine crate ends, this bare-brick subterranean boite boasts a succinct, A4 page of some really splendid vinos - a case of shorter is sweeter.

This South African operation with two chefs from the mother country - one ex-Launceston's and one ex-Foliage - is an unassuming entry into the groovy East End fringes. It's middle-of-the-road - clientele, atmosphere and menu - but you feel you're in safe hands.

Tuna sashimi was fresh if a little lacking in flavour: overshadowed by a tangle of sweetish daikon and some wasabi mayo. Drizzled pungent olive oil - with sashimi? - didn't help. A quail's egg salad with beetroot and pancetta was unremarkable. Slight overcooking had blighted a slab of quality cod wrapped in salty prosciutto, but a brochette of monkfish and king prawns was lovely: perfectly seared, with pungently garlicky gremolata adding a zesty seasoning.

The only innovation is a temperature-controlled cheese room, a reeking chamber of cheeses sold by weight. We wired in. Our meal, with cheese at £9, service and wine by the glass, cost £97. Pleasant enough, sure, but for this kind of money I can get remarkable.

Vivat Bacchus
Farringdon Street, London, EC4A 4LL