A great neighbour

As a good neighbourhood restaurant, it's almost impossible to fault Samphire. Two men buzz around meeting and greeting, setting up tables, and creating an air of warm welcome and attention to detail. The decor is certainly classy and carefully thought through.

And the food is great - from a tiny kitchen of three hardworking chefs, headed by Dirceu Pozzebon. A starter of tuna carpaccio was perfect, with a clever soya-like reduced balsamic dressing. Portions are generous.

A main course shank of lamb was a chunky winter-warming affair, with colcannon (potato and cabbage) showing how tasty a well-chosen fresh cabbage can make this dish. Sea bream was set off nicely with a dill creme fraiche. Ingenious, but not silly, combinations; good ingredients; the whole well cooked - it all seems so simple when you actually find it.

The superb, chocolate tart lived up to its billing, and a classic creme brulee was exactly that - though the creme was a little too deep to provide a perfect contrast to the thin, bitter caramel topping - but that's my only quibble.

The bill was £83, which included wine, water, a gin and tonic, excellent coffee and service. Hardly surprising, then, that the place was packed.

Samphire
135 Fortess Road, NW5 2HR