A great location but the food needs more crafting

Artisan, its publicity boldly declares, "is the ultimate destination restaurant". Perhaps, if we're talking location: the Westbury Hotel is spitting distance from Vivienne Westwood by New Bond Street. But to trounce the likes of Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's and Nobu at the Hilton Park Lane, among the top Michelin-starred hotel/restaurant competition out there, can talented young chef Daniel Hillier (a former Ramsay disciple) really cut the mustard?

Of course not - but he has a jolly good try. The seductive hotel atmosphere wafts you through to the hushed dining room. A slinky caramel-coloured interior, part of the hotel's £20 million makeover, is so serene I could have happily drifted under the table even before I'd had a whiff of the wine list offering more than 20 wines by the glass (per bottle is from £20 up - and up).

Then came the elegant starters. My broth of mushrooms, tarragon and poached egg (£8.50, the cheapest option on offer) was salted with lardons of smokey bacon, like a posh take on the full English. My companion faulted her ballotine of foie gras (£12.50, a sort of terrine on toast) only for being too generous and needing more toasted sourdough.

Now we were ready for outstanding mains - only to be disappointed, because at these prices you expect perfection. Both were dry, as if they'd been left under the heat for too long, and both also came with soggy green beans, the like of which I've not had since school.

My friend said the juices slathering her roast breast of organic guinea fowl with creamed cabbage and confit leg (£23.50) were "unbelievably rich yet not flavoursome".

That said, the truffled artichokes accompanying my pan-fried halibut (£22.50) were scrumptious, and the betweencourse treats - squash soup with truffles and a yummy coffee ice creamy delight - left us barely able to split our figgy tart (£7) without splitting our sides. Classy service, chatty atmosphere: Artisan is not the ultimate, but it's undoubtedly well crafted.

Artisan
Conduit Street, London, W1S 2YF