A find among the tat of Camden

Poor Camden hasn't had a truly good new restaurant in living memory (unless you count Gilgamesh, which is less restaurant and more opium-eater's theme park). So it's no surprise that partners Dan Spence (ex-Medcalf) and front-of-house charmer Denise Tang of Market are getting such an enthusiastic local welcome.

An independent's budget has dictated the pared-down look: brick walls, blackboard, attractive bentwood chairs and dangerous step on the way to the loos. But it's the menu that shows the love: frequently changing, unpretentious dishes made from credible produce. It's Big Sweary's Kitchen Nightmares writ large, only cleverer and less formulaic.

And it's all good, even odd notions such as a side-order-as-starter of Taleggio cheese mash with fried porcini: reads like stodge, tastes like cheesy comfort food.

Rich, creamy old-school short pastry chicken and ham pie comes with vivid green leaves of lightly cooked Brussels sprouts on top.

Two dishes are showstoppers: a starter of slow, slow cooked pig's cheeks, the extraordinarily tender meat melting into a savoury sludge of morcilla (Spanish black pudding) and peas; if this had been served as a main with a dod of that Taleggio mash, I might have whimpered with pleasure. And yielding-to-the-fork lamb shoulder surrounded by a pile of toothsome, toasty little fried potato gnocchi.

A find among the tat of Camden - and about time.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £80. 43 Parkway NW1. Tel: 020 7267 9700. Tube: Camden Town

Market
Parkway, London, NW1 7PN