A feisty, filling anticlimax

We had been meaning to go to Taqueria since its opening in the summer, intrigued that a humble taco joint could rouse critics to such fervour or such fury. Which was it to be?

Well, something of an anticlimax, actually. It has its charms: neat retro caff decor, helpful staff and the revolutions of the taco machine exert an hypnotic appeal. But the food is just OK. We ordered, as advised, four dishes each.

Everything arrived at once, meaning that some of our choices languished until they were unappealingly damp and cool.

Tacos (soft corn tortillas) should be eaten fresh and piping hot. Tastes were either retiring (tamal, a polenta-ey dumpling filled with jammy pork) or terrifying (a poblano chilli stuffed with soft cheese that made my face purple and my tongue swell up until it was bigger than Jamie Oliver's.

The tacos were feisty and filling, if unexciting. The best - surprisingly - was stuffed with an unattractive sludge of potato, chilli and cheese.

So this cute little number is neither the authentically brilliant Mexican that London has been waiting for, nor the repellent fast-fooderie reported elsewhere. But as a between-shops filling station, it does just fine.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £50. 139-143 Westbourne Grove W11. Tel: 020 7229 4734. Tube: Notting Hill Gate