A feast from the east

The Bricklayers Arms is a loud place. If you had to bottle 'essence of Hoxton' it would probably end up like this. Behind the bar is a large cut-glass mirror singing the praises of Messrs Whitbread and you can drink a decent pint - both Young's and Fuller's, which must please both South and West London die-hards.

But the Bricklayers is more trendy than trad. The upstairs bar has been re-named the Orient Express and serves Thai food and a murderous Bloody Mary. The dining room has modern art on the walls and a candle at each table. Service is crisp and friendly and there is a pleasant informal feel to dining here. If you compare the food to fine Thai cooking it comes off second best but considering the location and what your meal will cost it's a place worth noting.

Starters range from a rather dodgy minced chicken satay to good crisp vegetable tempura and those chewy Thai fishcakes. The main courses are more successful, everything seems fresh and there is a welcome belt of chilli heat to the dishes. The Thai salad is good, a big bowl with little gem lettuce hearts, lollo rosso, tomatoes, toasted cashew nuts and some plump prawns all redeemed by a decent hot-and-sour dressing.

The mixed sea food with hot chilli stir fry is dominated by large New Zealand mussels, but good and spicy. The pad kee mow is a good dish. The jungle curry with chicken is also well spiced and lifted by fresh herbs. All the mains come with rice and while the portions are not huge, neither are the prices. If you are drinking hard downstairs at the Bricklayers Arms it must be comforting to have the Orient Express just a flight of stairs away. Best move to the dining room before the steepness of the stairs becomes a problem.