A far from Zilli venture

This review was first published in March 2001

Aldo Zilli is a man of many parts, most of which he appears to employ in the pursuit of celebrity, both his own and that of others. There are the TV shows: Aldo's Italian Job, Aldo And Friends, Perfect Pasta With Aldo (most of them on little-watched cable networks); the books; the radio appearances on Virgin with buddy Chris Evans and Classic FM with Henry Kelly.

He's The Sun's resident chef - where he divulges such edifying nuggets as how to make grilled prawns for Brian May - and he works as a consultant for Safeway. Plus, of course, there's the work Zilli does for charidee. It's not unfair, therefore, to suggest he spreads himself thin.

Zilli's Soho joints, Signor Zilli's and Zilli Fish - is this man a solipsist or what? - are renowned for attracting a clientele culled from the pages of OK magazine; they regularly win awards such as Media Restaurant Of The Year, Showbiz Restaurant Of The Year and Best Restaurant To Impress A Blonde In Handkerchief Top If You Want To Get Your Leg Over. (OK, that last one is something of a fabrication.) Last week, his latest restaurant, tweely called Zilli Fish Too, opened in Theatreland with a typically lavish party: champagne, oysters and a stellar crowd of liggers including Denise Van Outen and the ever-fashionable Bobby Davro.

On the very next night, when we visited, it was already packed to capacity with well-dressed, moneyed-looking diners, each, perhaps, hoping that dinner chez Zilli would imbue them with a sense of a celebrity in their own dinnertime.

With all this as a backdrop, I expected to leave Zilli Fish Too disgruntled with the experience; Zilli's many other interests could suggest his kitchen might not be a top priority. Certainly, I disliked the décor: an onslaught of bilious turquoise awash with plush seating, fish tanks and fishy knick-knackerie - it was like being trapped in someone else's Little Mermaid fantasy. But Zilli's no dilettante, it's a professional affair, from the leather-clad maiden who greeted us, through the authentically Italian and knowledgeable staff to the food itself.

Ah yes, the food. It's true, I confess. I wanted it to be mediocre so I could smirk at the hubris of the celebrity chef. Sadly (for me), it was excellent. My calamari with Oriental dipping sauce was alchemically tender and robed in a fabulously light tempura batter; the accompaniments of a chilli and ginger seasoned soy dip and a wedge of lime rendered it irresistible. Hurrah - my date's mussels arrabiata showed little sign of the chilli heat fundamental to this saucing. Otherwise they were disappointingly splendid specimens.

Main courses were also good: lobster linguine featured toothsome homemade pasta and chunks of lobster; poached monkfish with sage gnocchi was fresh, clean-tasting and accompanied by expertly realised little dumplings. The only duff note was a gratin of potatoes with Fontina - in fact a dish of sliced boiled spuds with quantities of cheese just grilled over it; not unpleasant, but not a gratin.

It's not even wildly expensive for the area: with a bottle of Lugana Otella at £18, drinks including a glass of champagne and a tiramisu authentically crafted from egg yolk and mascarpone, we paid £92.50 for two. When Zilli himself appeared to glad-hand his enthusiastic customers, I hid in my menu; I may have to like the food, but I don't have to like all the nonsense that goes with it.

Zilli Fish Too
145 Drury Lane, WC2B 5TA