A bridge to Colonial waters

There's something slightly odd about classifying a Malay restaurant as colonial - the food, after all, is an authentic mix of Indian, Chinese and Malay that was probably being guzzled long before the British turned up.

Presumably, the idea is to add a scent of imperial power to the air - especially since the restaurant, situated in a City hotel, aims to cater to a fairly powerhungry clientele.

The only actual colonial item I spotted on the menu was the Singapore Sling cocktail, and Georgetown makes a fine one, cherry-rich and highly alcoholic. The food, divided into four mix 'n' match menus, each with three savoury courses, was less intoxicating: the ikan goreng (fried fish with herb salad) was slightly dry and the dumpling filling smacked of mediocre sausage meat, although the murtabak (Indian bread layered with minced beef) was good snack food.

Courses aren't huge: the main event was still welcome after three succulent pan- fried prawns (mine) and a laksa lemak (noodles in spicy coconut curry soup) that my dining partner pronounced 'creamily intense' but 'not too spicy'. And both my beef medallions and her lamb biryani were moist, well-spiced and plentiful, helped along by an Oakwood Reserve Shiraz from a wine list that's wide-ranging and reasonably priced.

With coffee, water and ten per cent service, the meal came to a fairly reasonable £96 (we ordered a lot of food); no colonial-style exploitation here.

Georgetown
London Bridge Hotel, 10 London Bridge Street, SE1 9SG