Rachel Khoo: Rhubarb and mackerel salad

Rhubarb often gets overlooked when it comes to savoury dishes. Its tartness always seems to be paired with something sweet — custard being the most popular choice. But this vegetable (yes, rhubarb is a vegetable) makes a great partner in crime for ingredients that are rich or deeply savoury.

Try serving rhubarb sauce with roast pork instead of the traditional apple, for instance. I prefer my rhubarb roasted rather than stewed as it retains its shape and colour better. After a winter full of stews and soups, the bright pink on the plate is a wake-up call and the zingy rhubarb cuts through the rich crème fraîche and smoky, salty mackerel. If you’re not a big fan of celery, replace it with fennel or some crunchy cucumber instead.

Rhubarb and mackerel salad

Serves 4 as a starter or 2 as a main course

2 sticks of pink rhubarb

Extra virgin olive oil

Sea salt

2 sticks of celery

120g crème fraîche (or cottage cheese for a lighter version)

3 smoked mackerel fillets

4 tbsp cider vinegar

2 handfuls of salad cress

Preheat the oven to 180C. Line a baking tray with baking paper.

Cut the rhubarb into 4cm lengths, toss in a little olive oil and place on the baking tray. Sprinkle with ½ tsp salt and roast for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the celery into thin slices. Divide the crème fraîche between the plates, spreading it into a circle. Scatter on the celery and flake the mackerel over the top.

Divide the rhubarb between the plates. Drizzle with some olive oil and the cider vinegar, then sprinkle salt and the cress on top. Serve immediately.