Jacob Kenedy's chef's table

Jacob Kenedy, chef and co-owner of Bocca di Lupo restaurant in Soho, tells us why he loves to have breakfast at St John's Hotel.

Where would you pay money to eat and how often? “St John’s Hotel (1 Leicester St, London, WC2, stjohnhotellondon.com) for breakfast about once every three or four weeks.”

Why? “It’s very local to my work and they do an amazing job and if there’s one meal that’s annoying to cook it’s breakfast, because it always takes lots of pots and pans and a lot of focus when your head’s feeling a little bit fuzzy – I’m not very good in the mornings normally. I very rarely hate cooking but breakfast is always a real challenge.”

Who would you take? “If I’m meeting someone to do something in the morning – either a friend or something to do with business or one of my colleagues – then I’d occasionally arrange to meet there so we could get a good start to the day. Or at the end of a wild night, if I’m still awake…”

What do you eat there? “Two things that really stood out for me. The devilled kidneys I had did my head in, they were so delicious, and they do these breakfast buns which are quite rich but have different fillings of deliciousness. It’s very honest, English, lovely food but without being that greasy sort of breakfast. Then they do a really lovely omelette – it’s simple, reasonably humble, and the one I had was made with very fresh garden peas which tasted quite refreshing really. Very nicely cooked and simple presentation – it just had that freshness from greens in it which is really lovely.”