How to cook... Blaas

Blaas are terrific bread rolls from Waterford, where I'm from. They are the only indigenous Irish yeast bread and are a source of county pride. We love them. A blaa is a fluffy white bread roll with a floury top, so expect to get a flour moustache as you eat them. For perfect blaas - such as those from Waterford - make sure the rolls are baked very close together so they join, which leaves them with soft sides as you pull them apart.

I often make mine in a larger tray to get more crust, which means they don't end up looking like typical blaas, but still have their great flavour. I sold many of these when I had my stall at Covent Garden Real Food Market, as they're the perfect vehicle for roast meat and - dare I say it - a crisp sandwich. Especially with my beloved Irish cheese and onion Taytos.

Makes 8

*10g active dried yeast
*10g caster sugar
*500g extra strong white flour, plus more to dust
*10g sea salt
*10g unsalted butter

Dissolve the yeast and sugar in 275ml of lukewarm water. Leave for 10 minutes. It should get nice and frothy.

Sift the flour and salt together. Rub in the butter. Add the wet ingredients to the dry and mix until combined.

Knead for 10 minutes until the dough is elastic. It will go from rough to shiny. Place in a bowl, cover with clingfilm, and leave in a warm place for 45 minutes. Remove from the bowl and knock back, pushing the air out the dough. Rest for 15 minutes to give the gluten time to relax; this makes shaping easier.

Divide the dough into eight pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. Rest for five more minutes, covered.

Dust a baking dish with flour and place the balls side by side. Sprinkle with flour. Leave in a warm place for 50 minutes.

Pre-heat the oven to 210°C/410°F/gas mark 6½. Dredge the blaas with flour for a final time and bake for 15-20 minutes.

Recipe from Comfort and Spice by Niamh Shields (£14.99, Quadrille)