Hot & Dogged: James Knappett

The chef-proprietor of Bubbledogs & Kitchen Table talks to Adam Coghlan about Noma, Per Se, being Marcus Wareing’s No. 2 and why grower Champagnes work surprisingly well with gourmet hotdogs.

Chef Knappett,’ as he became known during his prolonged stint in one of America’s best restaurants – Per Se under Thomas Keller – is from the new school. His first solo venture aims to be both democratic and meritocratic and is born, in the most part, out of an admiration for those under whom he has worked in New York and Copenhagen.

Tactfully, he talks about a “differing opinion on food” as the cause of parting company with Marcus Wareing after years as his most senior lieutenant at The Berkeley. The French way, the hierarchy and the egos provided a valuable education – not least in the realm of butchery – but reserves the words “world-class”, “inspiring”, “bell-ringing” and “amazing” solely when on the subject of his six-month stage as sous chef at Noma in Copenhagen and, of course, through his progression at Per Se.

Knappett, although infectious with passion for his craft, couldn’t be more humble and seemingly well-intentioned. “We’re no-one, yet,” he says in a statement rooted in ambition. I’m struck by a sense that this is a young chef who has experienced enough to know exactly how he would like to make his mark on London’s restaurant scene. Quietly, he must know he has the application, skill and team to make a charge for the top and, tellingly, his admiration for Keller comes not only from “a sense of finesse”, but also “a commitment to his staff”.

In what is an unusual, if headline-grabbing, new concept, Bubbledogs – the hotdog and Champagne restaurant – is only half the story. An ampersand on the doormat indicates the presence of Kitchen Table – the annex to Bubbledogs – that will open soon and be a “very relaxed restaurant that attempts to challenge the best cooking in London”. It will only be 10 covers: intimate, sensory and fun. It’s a canny ruse that has the food scene buzzing. Guests will sit around the chefs at a bar in an effort to break the barrier between chefs and diners. Knappett feels justified

in showcasing their art in an enterprise that is underpinned by the notion of sharing. Having learnt from the best, he now wants to share his love and knowledge of food with his chefs and with the lucky Londoners that manage to get a table.

bubbledogs.co.uk

This article appeared in the recent issue of the Evening Standard Food magazine. For updates please follow it on Twittter @ESFoodMag

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