The new gin you need to make your Negronis with this summer

Kammerling used a one-shot distillation technique resulting in a deeper and more rounded flavour, which also limits the yield to a maximum of just 80 bottles a day. A rare beast, indeed.

“It’s inspired by the classics: Plymouths, Beefeaters, Tanquerays, but with a modern take,” says Kammerling. “There’s more flavour, more aroma and it’s got a longer finish. It’s a very different-tasting gin. The thing I struggled with — the reason it took so long — is because gin is based on a classic style, like Gordon’s, and you don’t want to deviate too wildly. A lot of people are putting rhubarb and sugar in it, and that’s a gin liqueur with rhubarb. So you’ll appreciate the classic recipe but one that is more full-flavoured, more punchy.”

Kammerling describes it as “a colourful gin”: the gin contains a blend of 45 rainbow botanicals — fresh citrus yellows, herbaceous greens, sweet spiced ambers and fruity crimsons. “When I taste things, certain shapes and certain colours come to me — like a very mild version of synaesthesia — and I’ve tried to make this as colourful as possible,” he says. To paraphrase an old television favourite: it’s like gin, but not as we know it.

Mr Kamm’s Gin is available to buy exclusively at Fortnum & Mason, priced £45