Taste assessment: Cream tea is one of the great British contributions to human happiness. A featherlight scone, best jam and good clotted cream is a combination that says summer even when summer itself is AWOL. In this case the scone, plain or fruity, is substantial rather than feathery; the jam is good and comes in a sturdy kilner jar and the clotted cream is real, from Rodda's. It's what nature calls out for, mid-afternoon. A classier pick-me-up for an office tea than a box of Krispy Kremes.