In the spirit of the Balkan rhythms pumping out, Guro and Charlotte give me an impromptu gipsy dance lesson as my friend Jess looks on with barely suppressed laughter. In a change from my usual "waving one finger around in the air" dance, I look as if I'm trying to man an invisible market stall, flogging bruised oranges to old women who exist only in my head. But it's all good fun, totally in the spirit of the place.