Three cheers for cocktail heaven

Leaving London at Christmas always makes me deeply nervous. Will they ever let me back in again? Maybe they'll bring the social drawbridge down - and that's my lot. Sorry, Liz, back to the West Midlands with you. So in the last days before Christmas, I run round London, doing all the wonderful swanky things the city does best. Just in case.

There's something life-enhancing about seeing old friends for a last glass of champagne before you set off for a volatile family Christmas.

And London really is cocktail heaven. If it's old-school sophistication you want, try The Blue Bar at the Berkley Hotel or the Cigar Bar at Claridge's. It's like starring in your own private film. You half expect Noël Coward and Gertrude Lawrence to loom round the corner. Staff are attentive rather than snooty. And the low chairs make it absolutely necessary to lounge around languorously - you really can't sit on them with any degree of alertness.

Both Selfridges and Fortnum have wine bars in store, so you can combine last-minute Christmas shopping with a few cheeky glasses. And the new champagne bar at St Pancras International inspires a childlike enthusiasm: but please don't meet up on the day you're supposed to actually catch a train (far too tempting not to bother).

There are ground rules for the great last-minute cocktail fling. Do dress up. Remember to eat: or the waiters will regret letting you through the velvet rope. And do watch those rounds. Beauty comes at a price. The Cigar Bar at Claridge's is art deco heaven, but cocktails start at £14.50 each.

The Blue Bar, Berkeley Hotel

Designed by ¸ber-decorator David Collins in trademark Lutyens blue (duck-egg pastel) with rococo flourishes and art deco drinks cabinets. Bar is white onyx with black crocodile-print leather floor. Tactful staff make you feel you're living the jet-setting hotel life of your dreams.
Best drink: Gingerpine Cosmo with Belvedere vodka, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, cranberry juice, pineapple juice and fresh baby ginger.
Nibbles: go for Malaysian chicken satay, coconut prawn tempura and Peking duck rolls.

The Cigar Bar, Claridge's

Half railway carriage, half Sistine chapel, it was also designed by David Collins with a silver-leaf ceiling, green glass chandelier and red leather banquettes. Do dress up a bit.
Best drinks: Wild Berry Royal, Strawberry Elyse.
Nibbles: sushi and sashimi, hummus sandwich, fish and chips.

The Wonder Bar, Selfridges

This stylish mezzanine corridor overlooks the store's Wonder Room (selling luxury jewellery watches and gifts). There's table service from a team of expert waiters and a champagne sommelier. Charge a Wonder Bar card with credit and you won't even notice how much it costs.
Best drinks: champagne, rosé or try out the "wine juke box" which offers 52 types and vintages.
Nibbles: crustacean platter, charcuterie collection, cheese board.

1707 Wine Bar, Fortnum and Mason

Named after the year the store was founded, it's been described as a cross between a Finnish sauna and a Milanese shoe shop. Designed (yet again) by David Collins, it's part of the store's £24 million refurbishment.
Best drink: choose a bottle from the adjacent wine department for a very reasonable £10 corkage fee.
Nibbles: tapas-sized smoked eel with brandade and light horseradish cream (£12); pear and frangipane tart (£5).

The Conservatory & Library Bar, The Lanesborough Hotel

Oozes style and sophistication harking back to drinking men's clubs from Regency times with wall-to-wall books, high ceiling and a roaring fire.
Best drink: house champagne cocktail (Aperol, orange juice and Limoncello).
Nibbles: spicy lobster nachos.