Fay Maschler reviews Tozi

The word “tozi” is apparently Venetian slang for a bunch of guys or a bunch of friends. Tozi the restaurant — in a location straining every sinew not to seem part of the Park Plaza hotel in Victoria — seems to have assembled its in-house gang from venues launched by Nick Jones. Soho House and Shoreditch House feature in the CVs of chefs Daniele Pampagnin and Maurilio Molteni and the cicchetti concept — here on offer all day — was something Pampagnin worked on at Cecconi’s.

Once past the reception area — hotel-y even though it is particular to the restaurant — the benign effect that Nick Jones has had on eating out can be appreciated. A large open kitchen, flames leaping in a clay oven in another prep area, dangling hams and salume, piles of bread, prosecco on tap and homemade barrel-aged negroni contribute a sense of warmth and magnanimity. Various rustic artefacts such as old-fashioned weighing scales, wire cages for storing wine and bleached pine shop fittings break up the dual-level dining space.

I went to Tozi for lunch two days in a row, each time accompanied by a different hungry friend, and by no means exhausted the possibilities of the long menu. The wood- (actually gas-) fired oven is used for flat breads from simple bruschetta with tomato, garlic and basil, to the more lavish spianata, a puffy oval base cradling chunks of roasted aubergine, pancetta and ricotta in an embrace as fond as an Italian nonna. Perhaps the same baker’s hands are responsible for the pastas. Several were tried, and although I preferred the subtlety of buffalo ricotta in ravioli garnished with black truffle to strident salt cod in agnolotti with asparagus tips and wild garlic, both were beautifully crafted, and helped on their way by a silky butter emulsion, that chef’s trick that never fails. Baby gnocchi were also exemplary, but their duck ragu over-salted, maybe reduced for too long.

It seemed incumbent upon us to seek out Venetian specialities as a tribute to the executive chef and the small-plate tradition. (Also, soon after arrival on the first visit, Daniele had clasped my hand and said, “I love your son” — Ben used to work at Soho House. An Italian chap knows how to reach a mother’s heart).

Baccalà mantecato, a creamy mix that should be made from dried as opposed to salt cod, served with squares of grilled polenta made with organic Polenta bramata almost conjured up ghostly voices of gondoliers. The rotund scallop in its shell with gratin of garlic-shot toasted breadcrumbs was better than any I can remember eating in Venice. Fritto misto didn’t exactly speak of the tempting display at the Rialto market but then Vauxhall Bridge Road is hardly the Grand Canal.

Octopus with Taggiasche olives, celery fronds, tiny new potato halves and parsley are presented as a coiled tentacle burnished from the grill. Aubergine Parmigiana was the dryish self-contained square it ought to be. The disappointing part of the meal was dessert, where zabaione seemed “like uncooked batter that children have made for a cake”, to quote one of my companions, and berries and limoncello millefoglia breached the Trade Descriptions Act with its two layers of thin biscuit. There is a wide selection of cheeses, which would almost certainly be a better bet.

The Metodo Classico sparkling wines of Franciacorta are a match for fine champagne, and a glass of La Montina Extra-Brut is a great aperitif at £8. Tozi Spritz made with Aperol, fresh watermelon juice and prosecco is another. A bottle of Terre Nobili Cariglio Lidia Matera 2011 from Calabria was our waiter’s red wine recommendation. It evoked an oak bowl filled with soft fruits and a frisson of space; really interesting.

As I write, the World’s 50 Best Restaurants — stale buns now — is being leaked ahead of the awards ceremony by the Spanish press. Nonna, mamma, good-time girl that I am, it strikes me as equally enjoyable to be served sublime rosemary-flecked roasted potatoes by sweet enthusiastic Velio from Sardinia as to listen to robots singing opera during a 12-course meal with wine pairings, flash cards and video presentation — the culinary happening devised by this year’s Number One, El Celler de Can Roca in Girona.

8 Gillingham Street, SW1 (020 7769 9771) Daily noon-10.30pm. A lengthy meal for two with wine, about £82 inc 12.5 per cent service.