Plates with mates: The Little Yellow Door - review
In a flat near Notting Hill Gate a group of new friends are doing shots from egg cups. Later they will share a delicious melted camembert cheese snack, pose in novelty hats and play a game of Twister, leading to all sorts of shenanigans that are not fit to print. It is all fairly standard house-party practice but this lot only met when they arrived at the flat.
The Little Yellow Door (TLYD for brevity) is London’s friendliest food and drink pop-up. The advantage of these events, as well as being testing grounds for new restaurants, is that they are less formal than traditional dining. This is the first to allow guests to book on What’sApp and bills itself as “the ultimate flat share”. Regulars are given a personalised mug with their face on it. One of the founders, Kam Dehdashti, says: “The best nights out are always house parties so we thought we would recreate them here. You may arrive with three friends and leave with 10.”
If you’re balking at notions of organised fun, stick with it. At a time where the cruel London property market means we are being squeezed into ever tighter living arrangements, genuine house parties are becoming more difficult to host so outsourcing them is not as odd as it sounds. Plus it means you don’t have to squander pre-party energy on preparing your house or tidy up with a hangover. It’s a bit like going to a bar or pub, only far more relaxing and with the potential for more gossip.
They have kitted out the space, formerly the gay and lesbian Blag club, like a house, right down to the loos where we find nail varnish, reading matter, a hair dryer and tampons. Cynics may well point out that it is a kleptomaniac’s paradise with all the trinkets but so far everyone has been very respectful.
On the Saturday night I visited, Dehdashti was manning the decks but the best thing was the food. The expert creations that came out of the kitchen distinguished this gathering from any house party I have ever been to. Pop-ups have become the place for chefs to try out their concepts and the team behind TLYD have form, with past projects including ROXX club, Press Play immersive film nights and The Wandering Chef supper clubs.
Highlights were taramasalata with confit onions and pork scratchings, duck confit scotch egg and that incredible melted Camembert with pear, candied walnuts and truffled honey. It is worth going just for that. The flat’s pet goldfish are named Cam and Bert in its honour. All dishes are named after the flatmates everyone has had — from “the fridge raider” and “the corner shop bandit” to “the yoga bunny”.
As you’d expect at a house party, there is a punch — with rum and red wine but also a talented cocktail mixologist who whips up most things. Try the Space Jam, with Southern Comfort and your choice of apricot or blueberry jam.
Thursdays and Fridays start out as a more civilised affair with a sit-down dinner. If Saturday was anything to go by, it’s worth going back for more. It’s on for the next nine months so there is plenty of time to make friends with the housemates. It’s just a shame they don’t do hangover breakfasts as well.
Until July, Fridays, £35, Thursdays and Saturdays price à la carte, 68 Notting Hill Gate, W11, thelittleyellowdoor.co.uk
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