Enjoy the silence in Switzerland

I arrived in Switzerland with a few preconceptions, particularly with reference to its boring social life, but with a residue of hope that I might find some exciting nightlife.

Any thoughts on that score were quickly dashed on my first night by a local who described Vallèe de Joux's recently closed nightclub as having been 'a place of human regression'. Thankfully, after a few restful days in the mountain air, I was as keen on a quiet, early night as the Swiss appear to be.

Primarily known more for its vast winter sports programme, the Lake Geneva region turns out to be an equally attractive proposition in the summer. An area of captivating countryside, it is rich in both history and culture and, despite a generally laid-back way of life, still has plenty to offer besides its quaint natural charm.

In Le Sentier, well off the beaten tourist track, I was immediately struck by the general lack of activity; having left rush hour London a few hours earlier, I felt as if I had been transported to a different planet. Overlooking the peaceful Lac de Joux and surrounded by a seemingly endless expanse of greenery, I felt my city stresses start to vanish as I breathed in the clean, crisp air.

Known as the international capital of clock-making (a visit to the factory of Jaeger-Le Coultre is highly recommended), the town can also lay claim to having what must be one of Switzerland's most unusual restaurants on top of the Dent de Vaulion.

Enjoying the view, and acquiring a taste for cheese fondue, I suddenly experienced the partying side of the Swiss, as the restaurant filled with more than 30 drunk locals (indulging in rugby-style drinking games and traditional folk songs), three dogs and a ten-day-old donkey. To say I was slightly bemused would be something of an understatement.

Following a spot of caving on the Marchairuz the next morning, we moved on to the picture-postcard region of Les Diablerets. At 1,200m above sea level, the village forms part of the largest skiing zone in Lake Geneva and offers breathtaking views.

Among the best places to soak up the scenery are the fairways and greens of Golf Club Villars, a recently revamped course which regularly welcomes Formula 1 ace Jacques Villeneuve (a 34-handicap, apparently) into its clubhouse.

In terms of sheer beauty, though, even that is eclipsed by Glacier 3000, a ski resort featuring a state-of-the-art cable car, activities ranging from sledging to husky rides, inviting ski runs and a Mario Bottadesigned restaurant with incredible views across Mont Blanc and beyond.

My real complaint about Swiss life would have to be its expense. At La Rote, one of Les Diablerets few nightclubs, our jaws almost hit the bar when we were handed a bill of more than £30 for a round of four drinks. No wonder, as a local commented: 'The Swiss never like to talk about money.'

Initially taken aback by my introduction to Swiss culture, it didn't take me long to adjust and recognise the appeal on so many levels of the Lake Geneva region. Take an open cheque book but, far more importantly, an open mind and prepare to succumb to the simple way of life and staggering scenery. After a few stress-free days, giving you time to unwind, you may find you return having discovered as much about yourself as about the attraction of Switzerland. And, unlike much of Swiss life, that in itself is surely priceless.

Deane travelled with Swiss International Airlines. Flights leave from London, Birmingham and Manchester. Call 0845 601 0956 or visit www.swiss.com For more information on Switzerland, check out MySwitzerland.com or call 00800 100 200 30.

Bare essentials

Lake Geneva is the largest of the central European lakes. The crescent-shaped lake lies mainly in Switzerland but crosses into France.

Language: Swiss forms of French, German and Italian

Currency: £1 = 2.27 Swiss francs