Eastern Malaysia goes sumptuous

We were put puttering up the Pimpin river when Sidik suddenly veered off towards a mud bank of claw-waving fiddler crabs and simultaneously opened his umbrella.

Given that there was not a cloud in the sky, this seemed a little eccentric; even more so when it transpired that he wanted to show us "how to get the clothes off a woman, Malay-style", and the umbrella was to "stop snakes from dropping down the back of my neck".

A Japanese couple in the boat obviously had no idea what he was talking about but smiled encouragingly anyway. I did the same. Sidik hadn't gone "troppo" in the midday heat; the reason for his diversion was to point out a tree whose resin, he said, would make your victim's skin itch so much that she'd have no hesitation in removing her garments to scratch it. This same tree was the reason he'd had to scotch our day of making a bamboo raft upriver; the heavy overnight rain would have dissipated its resin into the water and we might have been pant-dropping, too.

This was east-coast Malaysia, a tourist destination which, over the years, has made few headlines, but is becoming more popular thanks to its timeless offering of empty sands, clear, warm sea and Malay village life. Until now the developed west coast has always stolen the east's thunder, but the west's cities are congested, its seas cloudy and its landscape monotonously patterned with oil palm and rubber plantations. While the underdeveloped east has always been a place where eco-tourism comes naturally, it hasn't been able to match the west for quality of accommodation. But two properties have changed that: the Aryani and the Tanjong Jara, for whom the aforementioned Sidik is the eco-tourism guide.

In the village of Merang, north of Kuala Terengganu, the Aryani is the creation of a cousin of the local sultan, its layout inspired by a former royal palace. Anyone familiar with the more discreet Balinese resorts will instantly be at home among these pagodas and lily ponds, but the style is simpler and less decorative than in Bali. The combination of wood and stone in clean rectangular shapes brings a touch of Japanese. There are only 17 villas spread over nine acres, each with its own garden and outdoor bath. Within easy distance of traditional-village houses, the fishing harbour and boat jetties of Merang, this is the departure point for the offshore islands of Perhentian and Redang, both excellent for diving, but the hotel is so self-contained, its shore so pristine, that you might as well be on an island here, too.

Two hours' drive south is the Tanjong Jara. It has also taken vernacular Malay architecture and crafts as its inspiration, but on a grander and more sumptuous scale. Double-decker mahogany palaces sit among mango and casuarina trees. Winning the Aga Khan award for authentic architecture back in 1983, it has recently been massively revamped by YTL, the creators of the West Coast's exclusive Pangkor Laut resort. Now there are two spas among the trees and a fitness centre in a glasswalled temple of health.

It is the details that make this a place apart: the staff, who seem to know who you are by instinct; the complimentary Malay snacks by the pool; table-side menu discussions with the chef; the gamelan orchestra playing to itself among the trees and the hotel's own fishing boat which keeps its restaurants supplied. However, something entirely unexpected impressed me most. I've stayed in wonderful places worldwide and take soft towels for granted, but I've never before had my drink fetched from 60ft above the ground by a pig-tail macaque called John - in my expericyclingence, an on-site coconut gatherer and his hairy helper is something of a first.

Seven nights with Kuoni (01306 747001; www.kuoni.co.uk) at the Tanjong Jara cost from £1,137pp, room only, based on two sharing, including return flights from Heathrow and transfers. The Aryani (www.thearyani.com) has rooms from £110. More information from Tourism Malaysia (020 7321 4920/ www.tourism.gov.my).

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Destination guide: Malaysia