Fully breathless performance

Quite how Mark Setlock maintains the frenetic pace (and requisite shouting) of Fully Committed for its full 70 minutes is something of a mystery. But maintain it he does and, in the process, gives us a oneman show that leaves you gasping.

The premise is simple: Sam is a resting actor scraping a living by working the reservation line at New York's hippest restaurant.

It's the run-up to Christmas and the non-stop stream of bizarre people attempting to get a table are interspersed with mournful calls from his widowed father wondering if Sam will make it home for the holidays, a monstrous chef and a French ma"tre d' who refuses to talk to ugly people. Sam's day reaches its nadir when he's forced to clean the toilets.

Setlock plays each character up with a camply outrageous delight - from Bryce, the gofer from Naomi Campbell's office to Mrs Sebag, who becomes a wailing banshee when her booking is lost.

He and co-creator Becky Mode condemn the vanities of the restaurant trade as much as its status-obsessed clientele, while still maintaining an affection for what they are parodying.

Until Dec 18, Arts Theatre, 6-7 Great Newport Street WC2, Mon to Sat 7.30pm, Sat mats 3.30pm, £15 and £25. Tel: 020 7836 3334. Tube: Leicester Square

Fully Committed