The west face of this 21,000ft dorsal fin of rock, snow and ice presented just the sort of challenge the pair were looking for: it was unclimbed and had defeated several other attempts. But while the ascent proved a gruelling testament to their skills, it was on the way down that Simpson discovered his true gift in life - falling. A plunge of a few metres on the summit ridge telescoped his leg, but at that altitude Simpson knew he was finished. What followed was first an astonishing rescue as Yates lowered him down the sheer face of the mountain, and then a terrifying choice. Simpson plunged over an ice cliff; Yates, unable to pull him up and about to be pulled into the abyss himself, remembered that he had a penknife in his rucksack.