The author dips his toe into all these areas. The idea of paying for water, for example, was established in ancient Rome; it supplied its citizens with free water via its 11 aqueducts but charged a tax, the vectigal, for those who ran off pipes for private houses. The bottled water industry goes back to pilgrims who wanted to take away samples from holy sites such as St Maelrubha’s well on Loch Maree, famed for curing insanity, or those on North Uist that alleviate toothache. The reductio ad absurdum of bottled water supposedly being better for you than tap water means that in America, 1,500 bottles of water are now opened every second and there is even a mineral water for dogs — Woof Water.