Nature’s own scenic supermarket

The world has woken up to Welsh food. Indeed, Stephen Terry, Michelin starred chef of the Hardwick in Abergavenny, believes “what we’re doing in Wales at the moment is as good as anywhere.” It’s little surprise: all the verdant valleys, dramatic shores and liquid sunshine mean Wales – especially the south – is Mother Nature’s own green-grocer, butcher, dairy and fishmonger rolled into one scenically spectacular supermarket.

Take the train to Cardiff, for instance, and you’ll discover a burgeoning food scene. There are must-book restaurants (try Fish at 85 or the Potted Pig) and super shops and delis (don’t miss the fabulous welsh cakes at Fabulous Welshcakes). There’s also a growing street-food trend – from barbecue maestros Hang Fire Smokehouse to Ffwrnes, two guys from Carmarthenshire making wood-fired pizza from local produce in a three-wheeled van. And now’s a good time to go: Cardiff Festival (21 June-6 September), the UK’s largest free outdoor festival, not only offers a lively programme of music and theatre, it has a dedicated food and drink celebration too (10-12 July).

But what about outside the capital? You don’t have to go far to find one gem, Restaurant James Sommerin at The Esplanade in Penarth, opened in 2014. Here, the Michelin-starred chef serves up innovative tasting menus (below left) with delicious views over the Severn Estuary. Or continue on to Llanerch Vineyard which, as well as wine tastings and tours, offers cosy B&B, an exquisite bistro and a new cookery school run by renowned Welsh chef, Angela Gray.

Further west, in castlefilled Carmarthenshire, you could take a cawl crawl. Seek out the best places to slurp this traditional Welsh stew – begin at the Georgian tea room at Llanelli’s Llanelly House, move on to Wright’s Food Emporium in Llanarthne – then learn to make it yourself under the guidance of the Welsh Cookery School. Carmarthenshire has plenty of specialities: head to lovely Laugharne for salt marsh lamb – and to drink in Dylan Thomas’s favourite boozer; visit Dinefwr Castle for the estate’s own venison; indulge at Llandeilo’s Heavenly, which makes ice cream from Welsh organic cream; then take the train to 800- year-old Carmarthen Market, to pick up a bit of everything.

Pembrokeshire is the end of the line – but what a finale. With dramatic cliffs, surf waves and some of the UK’s best beaches (ideal for a picnic), this is a county of the sea, serving up mackerel, sea bass, dressed crab and much more. At the Haverfordwest and Fishguard farmers’ markets, find fine products bearing the Pembrokeshire Produce Mark, which has more than 300 members; look for Pembrokeshire Earlies, the county’s famed potatoes, harvested from May to late July.

In May (24-25), the Really Wild Food Festival takes over St David’s , where 80 stalls combine with camping, climbing walls and mud runs. In September there’s the friendly Narberth Food Festival, where all things local are lauded via food stalls and talks. Or open year round is Narberth’s ‘restaurant with rooms’, The Grove, which uses Pembrokeshire produce to delicious effect.