Get down to Devon for some gurt grub

Gurt lush: that’s Devon. With two national parks and five Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, it’s a bucolic county of fertile green and fecund seas, loved by farmers, fishermen and foodies alike. Here, traditional fayre from seafood to cider are done very well.

June is a good time to take the train down: it’s Devon Restaurant Month, which sees eateries across the county offer exclusive seasonal menus and one-off events. Try a fishy Taste of Brixham at the port’s Poop Deck restaurant, eat the local slow-food catch at Terra Madre in Barnstaple or tuck into the four course Deliciously Devon menu at Sidford’s Salty Monk.

Branches of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage Canteen are found in Plymouth and Axminster (both easily accessible by train). Both offer a special Mussel Lunch for the month – though they’re worth visiting year round. Dedicated to sustainable, ethically sourced, local food; ingredients such as Plymouth mackerel and Higher Hacknell lamb feature on the menus while, at the farmhouse HQ near Axminster, you can join a range of cookery courses.

Hugh isn’t the only high profile chef to favour Devon. Booming Plymouth is awash with them: from Mitch Tonks’ Rockfish Seafood & Chips to Gary Rhodes’ Rhodes Kitchen (which does a fine Red Ruby Devon beef steak). Award-winning Simon Hulstone can be found at The Elephant in Torquay while the Maltsters Arms in Tuckenhay, near Totnes, was once owned by Keith Floyd and is still ideal for a boozy lunch. The most indulgent Devon experience is checking in at Gidleigh Park (30 minutes from Exeter station) – deep in dramatic Dartmoor, this is where two Michelin-starred chef Michael Caines MBE creates masterpieces from the best south-west ingredients (left); a two-night Gourmet Getaway packs in Caines’ à la carte menu, eight-course tasting menu and treat-filled hikers’ hamper.

On Exmoor, you can embark on a full Food Safari, following the park’e s quality produce from land (or water) to plate: visit local farmers, try fishing and take a 4x4 into remote corners, before hopping just over the county border for a masterclass at The Culbone’s Cookery School.

For an energetic experience, mix eating with running on Dartmoor: the Delicious Drake’s Trail (4 Oct) is a 15-mile ‘race’ from Buckland Abbey to Yelverton with locally produced food and drink tasters at checkpoints en route.

Unsurprisingly, Plymouth is the place to try Plymouth Gin, which has been distilled by Black Friars since 1793 and is the perfect accompaniment to sunset over the Sound. Devon also brews fine beers – look out for Otter, made from Devon spring water; it’s just launched Tarka, the county’s first premium lager. Match wine and cheese at Sharpham Vineyard near Totnes: the vineyard-cumdairy runs a range of tours, including a trek and taste option – stroll among the grapes then sample the spoils. For something more unusual, finish with a shot of Dappa (left), Devon Distillery’s take on the Italian spirit, made using English grapes and a little Devonian magic. Cheers! SB