A taste of Turkey beyond the tat

Cool, class-act, elegant and sophisticated are not expressions commonly used to describe a Turkish holiday resort.

Go mainstream and you'll find the worst excesses of seaside grockledom: gimcrack bars serving gassy pints and big screens for the footie; chips with gravy; and cheeky chappies peddling piles of tourist tat.

Most of us have had an embarrassing belly-dancing moment (I know I have), but that's no excuse not to go back. It's a big and often beautiful country, so shouldn't we give it a chance? I did and found Dionysos, a new mountain-top peach of a hotel above the undiscovered village of Kumlubuk, just round the bay from the discovered-but-still-sleepy resort of Turunc on the Bozburun Peninsula. It's just an hour by road, or 20 minutes by boat, from the loutish horrors of Marmaris, but we are talking another planet.

Dionysos, named after the Greek god of wine, ecstasy and fertility (why not aim high?) is more of a clifftop village than a hotel, with 42 detached "cottages". Ours had two terraces and full self-catering kit. I didn't intend to cook, but it was good to have a fridge, and I did end up tossing the odd salad for lunch. Owners Ahmet and Rim Senol literally bought the mountain and had it scooped out, receiving their first guests in April last year.

At 200 metres above a sheer gorge, like a mini-Wild West canyon, the view causes a sharp intake of breath and would attract rubbernecking busloads if the road were bus-friendly. Each room has the view, as does the clever infinityedge pool. Swimming up to the edge and gazing into a dreamscape of gauzy heat haze on far-off hills was my favourite Dionysos moment.

This was closely followed by snoozing in the shade under a biblical fruit salad of pomegranate, fig and olive trees, or sitting on our terrace with a bottle of something chilled, watching the light fade to amethyst, waiting for the nightly hoots of two lovesick owls, always uncannily followed by a display of shooting stars.

It was hard to leave most days - and most people don't, meeting up for nightly sundowners in the pagodashaped bar and moving on into the elegant dining room, with its candles, white linen and flaming torches round the pool. It's a bit too "country club" for me ("my son, the doctor" conversations over G&Ts), and, after only two days, cliques were bonding like glue.

Judging by the tearful farewells (both sexes) on the final morning, though, Ahmet and Rim have hit on a winner. The no-children rule helps, but the Senols also have a touching faith in the better side of human nature.

Dionysos has a mini-mart, selling wine and essentials for basic meals. It's never staffed, but works on an honesty system, where people write down their purchases in a book and settle up at the end of the week.

Over a drink one night, I asked Ahmet if anyone had ever abused his trust. "This is not a hotel, it's our home, and our guests are friends," he said. "We do not look into peoples' pockets; we look into their hearts."

Way to go

Jill Hartley travelled to Dionysos with Tapestry Holidays (020 8235 7777; www.tapestryholidays.com). Until 13 July, one week costs from £675pp B&B (including a complimentary day sail on the hotel's gulet); from £750 until 26 October.

Turkish delights for every budget
Destination guide: Turkey